This build is inspired by the work of @meowmicks (on IG). His application of these boards on a frame is so clean, of all the non-heatsink board builds I’ve seen on instagram his design is by far the best. Props man, and thanks! Here are pictures of @meowmicks panel builds. Use these for reference and inspiration!
Note: As you can see in some of @meowmicks images below that this build works not just for Photon Fantom boards, but will also work with any other board that doesn’t use a heatsink, such as the http://ledbuilder.org/dating-site-for-nigeria-only/best lebanese dating siteand shanghai dating expat
Step 1: Parts List
- 8 x Photon Fantom Designs boards
- 2 x Meanwell HLG-320H-C2100
- 1 x LED Dimmer from Rapid LED
- Wago assortment pack
- 18 gauge solid core wire (check home depot bulk wire, you can get some cheap, or it’s known as thermostat wire. 18 gauge solid core, NOT stranded)
- 14 awg guage speaker wire – 100ft (for remote mounting drivers)
- 1/4″ wire sleeve – 100ft (to make remote driver wires tidy)
- 4 x 37″ x 1″ aluminum tubes
- 2 x 31″ x 1″ aluminum angle
- Cable glands (strain relief)
- Rubber wire grommets
- Eye nuts and bolts (for hanging)
Step 2: Buy Metal
Goto your local metal supplier. Ask him for the pieces you need. Make sure they smooth the edges so your metal is usable right when you pay for it.
Step 3: Space out the boards and mark and drill holes
This is more personal preference. Everyone may have a different way of tackling this. I laid out the boards and made marks with marker, then drilled the holes.
You will need the following holes:
- 32 x holes to mount panels (4 per panel)* You will use self tapping screws for this, so don’t drill these holes.
- 8 x hole to stuff the wires into the tube via a wire grommet (1 per panel) – This hole needs to be drilled for the grommets and wire to fit.
- 2 x holes, one on each inside tube on the top side (opposite of panels) for the cable glands and remote driver wire (as pictured) – these holes need to be drilled also.
- 4 x holes in the angle aluminum for the eye bolts for hanging the fixture.
Step 4: Start attaching boards
Again this is probably a matter of preference, but I laid the boards out and used self tapping screws to fix them onto the tube.
Once the boards are screwed in the two tubes will be fairly sturdy (the boards are aluminum plates after all).
Step 5: Route 18guage wire in series and daisy chain the boards + to –
- Connect the boards in series, routing the cabling inside the tube, bringing the + and – of the series to meet where you drilled the cable gland hole.
- Feed some 14g speaker wire through the gland, and use two 2-conductor wagos to connect the + and – of the 18 guage solid core to the + and – of the 14guage speakerwire.
- Use the wire sleeve if you can through the gland, so the ‘cable’ coming out of the gland is the speak wire wrapped in a sleeve to be tidy.
- You should have two, 2 wire cables coming out of one of each cable gland. You can clean them up by zip tieing them or putting both wires inside the cable sleeve.
Step 6: Assemble the frame
Once the boards are mounted and wired routed, you can rivet the angle onto the frames. Rivets are sort of permanent. I’m not sure how to remove a rivet, so if you think you will need to open the frame up again use bolts and nuts instead of rivets. I prefer rivets though.
Step 7: Mount your drivers and connect them to the + and – leads from the fixtures
Each fixture will have two sets of + and -, one for each 4 boards. You are running 4 boards per driver.
Step 8: Connect the RapidLED.com dimmer
You can connect multiple drivers to a single dimmer. There’s a logic board that normalizes the signal so you can use the dimmers on one driver or multiple.
Hopefully you did it right!
My first build I put the drivers on the frame, which I found out generates a lot of heat so they were removed and mounted remote.